Jul 8, 2008

Haute couture reaches new height

Bird-inspired collection confirms high-fashion's continued popularity

By Associated Press

PARIS - French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier conjured neon birds of paradise heading to a high-class rave in his feathered-and-caged haute couture collection in Paris on Wednesday.

Models with their hair twisted into high cylinders paraded in flamboyant fur coats and sumptuous evening gowns topped with crinolines and corset cages in fluorescent yellow, orange and pink.

"Women feel so free nowadays that they are wearing cages again," the irreverent designer told reporters after the show. "It's the ultimate stage in women's liberation."

Gaultier said he was inspired by the "fluo kids" of the electronic music scene and by a 1980s film called "Tron," about a hacker who is trapped inside a computer game.

The Day-Glo colors only served to highlight the luxurious fabrics that are the hallmark of made-to-measure haute couture.

Gaultier is an unapologetic proponent of fur, and highlights here included a mink shawl-collared coat with a gilded cage topper highlighted with cabochon studs.

The man famed for designing Madonna's conical bra has always used corseting in his collections, but this time he took the idea to a new level, constructing entire body cages, some of which resembled insect's wings.

A cocoon cage lined in silver fox fur split open to reveal a skintight sheath dress with pearl-embroidered flowers - perfect for dancing the night away.

The vibrant display confirmed that haute couture is thriving, despite a gloomy economic environment, as discerning customers seek out one-off creations.

Gaultier, who was crowned the king of Paris couture following the retirement of Yves Saint Laurent in 2002, said he was surprised by the success of his couture division, launched 11 years ago.

"I think it does have a future, because I am living that future, in a way," he said.

"I don't know how long it will last, but in this period where you have a choice between either very cheap clothes or high luxury, couture is clearly undergoing a revival."

Only 11 fashion houses qualify for the haute couture designation, which is delivered by the French Industry Ministry and carries with it a strict set of specifications.

A long list of houses have discontinued the loss-making activity in recent years, among them Emanuel Ungaro, Balmain, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean-Louis Scherrer and Hanae Mori.

But smaller, lesser known designers have been greeted into the couture pantheon, most recently Maurizio Galante and Anne Valerie Hash.

Meanwhile, young designers are taking over storied brands to ensure their survival. Alessandra Facchinetti was due to make her couture debut for the Italian house of Valentino on Wednesday, following the retirement of its founder in January.

"The cohabitation between famous brands with artistic directors from the new generation, and new brands which have their own repertory, is what makes the strength of couture week," said Didier Grumbach, head of French fashion's governing body.